22 September 2019

Ruby and White Chocolate Chunk Cookies

I can't believe it took me this long to make something with ruby chocolate. I have seen it in its original Callebaut Ruby form and in the form of Ruby Kit Kat bars that made their debut in Japan and Korea. Callebeaut markets it as the fourth chocolate next to dark, milk, and white. The flavour of ruby chocolate is neither the flavour profile of white chocolate or milk chocolate, but if you needed a good reference point for the taste of ruby chocolate, I would say it is most similar to white chocolate with berry fruitiness (specifically raspberry) and luscious smoothness. It might be weird to say that it is a "refreshing" chocolate but that is definitely a word I would use to describe it. Since it is still a relatively new product, finding it might be a bit harder than finding other types of chocolate for your cookies. A specialty bakeware in Vancouver sells ruby couverture and I like using nicer than chocolate chips for cookies. I heard you can buy ruby chocolate wafers from Trader Joe's so that might be worth a try.

These cookies are a good mix of chewy and crispy and they get their ripples from Sarah Keiffer's pan-banging technique. There are puddles of both ruby chocolate and good-quality white chocolate to give variations in chocolate flavour. I also really like the look of having both pink and white puddles peeping through the cookie. The secret to chocolate puddles in a cookie is to use coarsely-chopped, good-quality chocolate and not chips that tend to retain their shape. There might be a time and place for chocolate chips, but this is not one of them. Lastly, I give these cookies a generous sprinkle of flaky sea salt which, in my opinion, is extremely necessary for any cookie.

Ruby and White Chocolate Chunk Cookies
Yields 16 cookies
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoon unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup and 2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 1/2 cup + 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
4.5 oz  (~3/4 cup) ruby chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 oz (~1/2 cup) white chocolate, coarsely chopped
Maldon flakey salt, to sprinkle

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugars until smooth, about 1 minute.

Add the vanilla extract and egg to the butter mixture and mix on medium speed until fully incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. With the mixer on low, add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and mix until just combined.

Add the chocolate and mix until just incorporated.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap or place in an airtight container, and then refrigerate it for at least one hour.

After an hour, preheat the oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

With a standard ice cream scoop, scoop balls of dough and place them about 2 inches apart on the trays. These cookies will spread a bit.

Bake for about 12 minutes and remove the pan from the oven and bang it on the top of the counter to produce the first layer of ripples. Return pan to the oven and bake again for another 1 - 1.5 minutes before removing it and repeating the banging step. Bake the cookies for a total of 15 - 16 minutes, or until the cookies are browned and caramelized along the edges and centres are just set.

Top each cookie with a sprinkling of the flakey salt. Allow cookies to cool on trays for 5 minutes and transfer to a rack to continue cooling.

Happy baking!

3 September 2019

Kabocha Salted Egg Yolk Mooncakes with Sago Pearls

I cannot believe we are already three days into September. The summer fair has wrapped up and the $1 ice cream cone special from you-know-where has ended. I still have an ice cream sandwich blog post (for these!) I want to share but it seems out of season now? Do we still care about three easy homemade ice cream sandwich hacks? Can I still make a cake that features a flamingo floatie on top? Those are the type of questions that have been floating in my head for the last few days. I. Am. Dreading. Fall.

I have stated in the past that my least favourite type of baking is fall baking. I am not that into all the warm spices and the lack of berries and stone fruits makes me a bit sad. Also, I do not want to add pumpkin purée in any of my baked goods. Occasionally I can find some joy in making a fall apple or pear pie (lattice top, of course) but if I had to choose a favourite type of fall treat to make it would be mooncakes to celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival. I started making mooncakes last year, both the traditional kind with a salted egg yolk centre and the 'snowy skin' variety with taro and coconut, and have become obsessed since. I love buying all the different patterns for my moon cake press. Since last year, I bought a new mooncake press! A smaller square one! My older press makes a mooncake with 100g of dough and filling while this new one makes 50g moon cakes. I actually prefer the smaller press because I really like mooncake dough, especially snowy skin mooncake dough because if the mochi-like consistency. I decided to make snowy skin mooncakes again this year because A) they do not require the use of lye water B) are so beautiful with all their different colours and C) are so tasty. My mooncakes this year are galaxy inspired, with different shades of blue and purple swirled throughout and topped with a good amount of edible gold leaf. The filling is made with one of my favourite things to eat, kabocha squash! And because it is not a mooncake without salted egg yolk, I folded salted egg yolk into the squash purée so you get a bit of it with every bite. Sago pearls are also folded into the filling for more texture and chew.

Mid-Autumn Festival falls quite early this year, on September 13th, but you still have almost two weeks to perfect your mooncakes! Brb, I am going to make more mooncakes now! (PS. I gave you measurements in grams because mooncake dough can be finicky if the ratios are off)

Kabocha Salted Egg Yolk Mooncakes with Sago Pearls
Yields 8 - 10 mooncakes (*depends on size of mooncake press)

Snowy Mooncake Wrapper
180 g unsweetened full-fat coconut milk (~200ml)
15 g vegetable oil (1 tablespoon)
50 g glutinous rice flour
35 g rice flour
20 g tapioca flour
45 g icing sugar

In a measuring cup, combine coconut milk and vegetable oil.

In a separate bowl, whisk together glutinous rice flour, rice flour, tapioca flour, and icing sugar.

Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture and mix well using a whisk, making sure no clumps remain.

Strain mixture through fine-meshed sieve to remove any clumps. Use the back of a spoon to press on any clumps to smooth it out.

Over medium heat, steam the mixture in the bowl for 30 minutes, until it becomes slightly transparent.

Remove the bowl from the pot and stir the mixture with chopsticks for several minutes until the mixture is glossy and smooth.

Transfer the dough to a plate and cover with saran wrap. Knead  for several minutes until the surface becomes oily.

Form the dough into a disc and refrigerate for at least three hours before assembling the mooncake. A warm dough is too sticky to handle.

Kabocha Salted Egg Yolk Filling
160g kabocha squash, steamed and mashed
3 salted egg yolks, cooked
25 - 40g (3 - 5 tablespoons) powdered sugar
28g (2 tablespoons) full-fat coconut milk
1/2 cup sago pearls, cooked (~1/3 cup uncooked)

Wash kabocha to remove any dirt that may be on the exterior. Cut kabocha in half and scoop out the seeds. Depending on the size on the squash you have, you may only need 1/3 or 1/2 of the squash.

Place kabocha half into a steamer or steaming basket. Steam until tender to the fork, roughly 20 - 25 minutes.

Remove squash from steamer. Using a fork or potato ricer, mash the kabocha into a smooth paste.

In a separate bowl, separate the cooked salted egg yolks from the whites. Mash the the yolk with a fork until it becomes a coarse paste.

Combine the egg yolk mixture and kabocha paste. Mix in powdered sugar. Add the coconut milk, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a thick paste. You may need more or less coconut milk depending on how much moisture is inherently in your squash. At this point, I also like to taste the mixture to see if it needs more sugar. Salt levels of salted egg yolk can vary depending on brand.

Lastly, fold in cooked sago pearls. Chill the mixture in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Toasted Rice Flour (for dusting)
1/4 cup rice flour

Toast rice flour in a dry frying pan over medium heat for about 3 - 5 minutes until rice brown turns a light golden colour.

Set aside to cool.

For a small (50g) mooncake press, weigh out 35-gram scoops of squash filling and gently shape each portion into balls. Set aside.

Divide and weigh the dough into 15-gram pieces. Roll out each piece of dough between to pieces of saran wrap until 1/8 inch in thickness.

Place ball of filling in the centre of each piece of dough. Wrap the squash filling with rolled-out wrapper dough and seal completely. Shape into an oval shape, so it will easily slide into the mooncake mold. Dust the bottom of the mooncake ball with toasted rice flour.

Dust the mooncake mold with toasted rice flour and insert dough ball into the press. Press on the mooncake mold to shape the mooncake. Carefully remove from the mold. If any sides of the mooncake is too tacky, brush on toasted rice flour.

17 August 2019

Honeycomb Lemon Almond Cake

When it comes to cake decorating, I do not use too many piping bags fitted with open-star piping tips, I rarely use sprinkles (unless its inside the cake layers for funfetti) to decorate, and I definitely do not have hands that are steady enough to execute insanely straight striped buttercream for the sides of a cake. That does not mean I do not have an appreciation for that type of cake decorating. In fact, I really admire bakers like Rachel and Brittany, who always have the cleanest edges on a cake, the most beautiful rosettes of buttercream, and the most perfectly placed sprinkles. The type of cake decorating I am most comfortable with is when you give me a big bowl of vanilla buttercream and a small bouquet of seasonal fresh flowers. If I am feeling fancy, I might ask you for some gold leaf. 

From time to time, I do like to challenge myself and use decorating techniques that I am not too familiar with. Recently, Food Network Canada asked me if I could make a cake for their website that highlights the technique of using bubble wrap to create chocolate honeycomb. The pitch was for a cake that was entirely covered in honeycombed chocolate but I decided that little cut outs of honeycomb chocolate would be much easier (and less intimidating!) for any home baker. I got these cute hexagon cookie cutters for the chocolate to play on the honeycomb theme. Alternatively, you could just break the chocolate into shards and place those on the sides the top of the cake. I used the leftover chocolate from the honeycomb to make little chocolate bees for the top of the cake. This technique can be applied to any cake of your choice but is especially fitting for a tender lemon almond cake with honey cream cheese frosting. Click here to find the full recipe and tutorial!

Some additional cake decorating inspo in case you need some:

Floral naked cakes:

Fun cakes:

Happy baking!

14 August 2019

Salted Egg Yolk Crystal Sago Cakes

Growing up, my mom and I would visit the same small Chinese mall every Friday night. The mall was a bit rundown and the there were more closed stores than ones open for business but that did not stop us from developing this weekly ritual because it had the best food court. Every stall specialized in a different type of Chinese cuisine (minus the one random bento box stall at one corner of the food court) and everything tasted more homemade than similar to fast food. My mom’s go-to was a stall that specialized in soy-marinated dishes but that was not what she ordered. She knew on the right hand side of the display case of marinated meats, they would have freshly pan-fried whole fish and because she was a regular, they would always give her two of them for the price of one. My order changed weekly but you could always count on my order being some sort of noodle dish. What made our Friday night food court tradition a real tradition was that we would always end our food court date by ordering a box of six mini crystal sago cakes filled with custard or red bean from a Taiwanese dessert stall. The translucent “cakes” were more of a mochi consistency than what you would normally associate with cake. You can see each individual sago pearl that makes up the cake and it’s chewy and sticky nature is what made me love them.

We ordered them so much that my mom and I decided to make some at home to satisfy the craving during the weeks we could not make it to the dessert stall. Crystal sago cakes are extremely simple, and I am not making that statement as someone who makes desserts all the time. I am making that statement as the 12 year old self that I was when I started making them. You only need few ingredients: sago pearls, sugar, oil, and a filling of choice. Sometimes I would omit the filling entirely and add a touch more sugar to the sago.

Today I’m sharing the recipe for a standard crystal sago cake but also a recipe for a sweet-and-salty salted egg yolk filling. Salted egg yolk custard is my absolutely favourite filling for any Chinese dessert. Cue the salted egg yolk steamed buns at dim sum, these salted egg yolk mochi balls, and these salted egg yolk cream puffs. I recommend that you freeze the filling so that it can be easily scooped into the sago pearl batter. This will create a centre of liquid salted egg yolk custard instead of having it seep everywhere throughout the cake, though the latter is just as tasty (I tried both ways). I also like to keep any extra filling to serve on the side because it is oh so good.

Salted Egg Yolk Crystal Sago Cakes
Yields 6 - 8 crystal sago cakes

Crystal Sago Cake
1/2 cup uncooked sago pearls
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 tablespoons granulated sugar

Salted Egg Yolk Filling
4 cooked salted duck egg yolks
5 tablespoons icing sugar (more or less depending on preference)
2 teaspoons heavy cream
Measure half a cup of dried sago pearls and soak them in boiling water for one hour, stirring the pearls occasionally so that they do not clump together.

While the pearls are soaking, make the salted egg yolk filling. If using whole salted duck eggs, separate the yolk from the egg white and place the yolks into a small bowl. Add powdered sugar and cream into the bowl and mix well so that the mixture is smooth. If any clumps remain, put the mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Place mixture in the freezer so that it firms up and is easy to scoop into the sago cakes.

After an hour, pearls should be somewhat translucent but still have a white centre. Pour the pearls through a fine-mesh strainer to drain the your water.

Pour the pearls into a bowl and mix with half tablespoon of oil and four tablespoons of sugar.

Using a spoon, spoon pearls into the cavity of a muffin cup/tin so that the cavity is 1/3 full. Spoon into 1-2 teaspoons of the salted egg yolk mixture. The filling is easier to work with the firmer it is. Cover the filling with more pearls until the cavity is 2/3 full. The sago cakes will not expand too much when steaming even if you over fill it.

Over medium heat, steam the sago cakes for 15 minutes until the pearls are see through and no white centres in the pearls remain.

Let sago cakes cook 15 minutes before removing from muffin tin. Serve warm or at room temperature. Feel free to serve any additional salted egg yolk filling on the side!

Happy baking!


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